Hidden away high in the mountains, little Yusuhara was once a logging town and now celebrates the beauty of the local wood in a rather unexpected way. Besides a number of traditional wooden structures and bridges, the town is best known for its buildings designed by famous architect Kengo Kuma. The architect is said to have been inspired by the town’s history (particularly the wooden kabuki theater) and natural surroundings, and his creations around Yusuhara incorporate elements like Japanese cedar, thatch and traditional carpentry techniques. Despite being modern, the buildings still retain a distinctly Japanese feel, and fit in well with the surrounding mountains.
There are currently five Kengo Kuma-designed buildings in Yusuhara. The Kumo-no-Ue-no Gallery, a massive structure created with local cedar, almost seems to float on a thin supporting beam. The enchanting Kumo-no-Ue-no Library or “library above the clouds” is open to the public, so you can see how the books are cocooned within glowing polished cedar surfaces, under a ceiling composed of wooden beams that creates the feeling of sunlight filtering through the trees of a forest. A short walk away is the Yusuhara Town Office, with a playful exterior and a stylized tea hut that represents this important part of local culture. Machi-no-Eki Yusuhara, a community market and hotel that is the only structure that also uses thatch, although Kuma plays with expectations by using this traditional material to cover the outer wall rather than the roof. YURURI Yusuhara, just next to the library, is not open to casual visitors, but you can still admire the Japanese cedar boards on the exterior.
Outdoorsy folks can follow in the footsteps of local hero Sakamoto Ryoma by hiking the Dappan no Michi, the route this former samurai used to escape his native domain. The shortened version of the Yusuhara section starts by the Yusuhara Town Office, and is around a 3-km loop, crossing the elegant roofed wooden bridge at the end of town. Whether you do the full hike or not, be sure to stop at the restaurant Kusabuki, for homey dishes made from local produce. In the center of town, Coffee Flag is a great spot for a cup of coffee and a slice (or two) of cake. And if you really want to feel on top of the world, continue up to the nearby Shikoku Karsts, right on the border with Ehime Prefecture. You can stay in a lodge high on the Tengu Plateau and watch the sunset and clear starry skies from over 1000 meters up.
How to get to Yusuhara: renting a car is the easiest way to reach Yusuhara from Kochi City, which usually takes under two hours. For those taking public transportation, take a train from Kochi Station to Susaki Station (around 40 minutes), and switch to a bus which will take you to Yusuhara in about 1 hour.